Today we have a special guest post from a Style Unearthed reader, Kelly, and her partner Ken. Kelly was recently telling me about the dining table they had built, and then sent me a picture on Instagram. It is gorgeous! I asked if she would mind sharing how they built it, as I thought people might be interested. Thank you so much to Kelly and Ken – this is very much appreciated!
How to Build a Timber Dining Table
Thank you Sarah for the invitation to share how we built our fabulous new dining table. I have to say – I am absolutely in love with it and am like a proud Mum showing pictures of it to anyone and everyone that will look. I think there is a real thrill to have something you have made yourself – of course it is not perfect like a shop bought one but it is perfect to me! I am also extremely proud to share the skills of my amazing partner, Ken. He puts up with all my crazy schemes and I am sure he dreads it when I say, “Hey babe, look at this. Do you reckon we can make it?”! It tends to happen a lot!
Before I share the process we used, please bear in mind, neither of us a professional table builders. We made it to suit us, our skills, budget and the look we wanted to achieve.
Materials and Tools
All materials were bought from Bunnings, but you should be able to find them at a variety of large hardware stores.
|TABLETOP||2100 x 900 x 30 Laminated Clear Pine Panel|
|RUNNING BOARD||90 x 19 dressed pine : 2 x 2100mm lengths + 2 x 862mm lengths|
|LEGS||90 x 90 dressed pine : 4 x 720mm lengths|
|BRACKETS||75 x 75 x 40 angle brackets x 8100 x 200 flat brackets x 4|
|SCREWS||75mm bugle head batten screws x 1616mm x 6 gauge self drilling screws x 32
19mm x 6 gauge water top screws x 32
|STAIN||Cabots Water Based Stain & Varnish in Burnt Gum|
1. Starting with the 90 x 19 dressed pine, cut 2 x 2100mm pieces and 2 x 862mm pieces
2. On the underside of the tabletop run a bead of glue around the very edge.
3. Place the pieces of cut pine from Step 1 on the glued edge and clamp until set. If you have glue seep out the sides, wipe this off now.
4. Cut the four legs. We cut our legs to 720mm which made the finished table height 750mm (allowing for 30mm thickness of the top).
5. Once the glue is dry, the next step it to start attaching the legs. Take one of the legs and butt it into a corner. Using the bugle head screws, screw through the outside running board you have glued on in the third step. You want 2 screws per side ie. 2 x side and 2 x end = 4 screws per leg. Repeat for the three remaining legs.
6. Once the legs are attached, add to the angle brackets to the inside. Each leg will have 2 x brackets. Use the self drilling screws to attach.
7. If you want to stain/paint your table, now is the time to do it. We used a Cabots stain in Burnt Gum and to be honest, this made the table! We applied 2 x thin coats with the recommended brush and wiped off with a rag as we went along.
8. For purely decorative purposes (i.e. to achieve the industrial look we were after), we added the flat brackets to each corner. As these are flat plates, you will need to bend them. To do so, place the bracket over a square edge and using your brute force bend in half. Attach with the wafer top screws – 8 x screws per corner.
Ta da – you’re done! As I mentioned, I am sure there are plenty of other ways you could make this work. What makes this process so easy is being able to purchase the top in one solid piece.
|LEGS||$96 (approx. $24 each)|
|SCREWS AND BRACKETS||approx.. $50|